By Harold Vieira, co-founder Harold and Hansa, specialists in Madeiran Rum

 

Agricole rums are becoming ever more popular as rum lovers seek to widen their repertoire and palette away from the generic, and sometimes excessively sweet, molasses-based rums.

Agricole rums sit in the Premium rum category as they are rarer and offer a more complex flavour profile than molasses-based rums. With Agricole rums, you experience subtle notes of the sugarcane itself, which is not found in molasses rums. And when aged, Agricole rums take on more layers of flavouring depending on the barrel or casks in which they have been aged.

Aged Agricole rums from Madeira in particular, are unlike any others found across the world. The high-quality varieties of sugarcane grown on the island contribute to the refreshing tones of true Madeiran rum.

A History of Madeira Rum

Madeira Island, known as the Pearl of the Atlantic, is located 850 km southwest of Portugal with a population of around 250,000. The Portuguese Island is renowned for its beautiful landscapes, with 90 miles of coastline and a varied terrain.

Madeira is a volcanic island with a mild to warm climate all year round. This helps to explain why currently the three main industries of the island are tourism, banana cultivation, and Madeira Wine.

However, in recent years the production of Madeira Rum – which was once the biggest industry in Madeira – has been revived and is expected to be one of the country’s greatest exports in the coming years.

Rum da Madeira, as it is known on the island, is an Agricole rum with an extensive history, and cherished by rum enthusiasts for its complex yet refreshing flavour profile.

The warm climate of Madeira, together with its fertile volcanic soils, means this European landmass yields exceptional-quality sugarcane. What further sets Madeira Rum apart from other rums are the meticulous methods of production undertaken by the distillers on the island.

Timeless distillation methods combined with exceptional craftsmanship result in rums with extraordinary flavours. Madeira Rums have been recognised by the drink’s community, with many rums from the island has won top awards and accolades across international spirit competitions over the years.

How Madeira Became a Rum Pioneer

Madeira Island was officially discovered in 1419 by three explorers – João Gonçalves Zarco, Tristão Vaz Teixeira, and Bartelomeu Perestrelo – by the order of Prince Henry the Navigator. The name ‘Madeira’ is derived from wood, due to the island’s historic abundance of dense forest. The first settlers of Madeira cleared the dense laurel forest to grow grain, but soon after decided to plant sugarcane instead, with these crops originating from Sicily.

Madeira’s geographic location, warm climate, abundance of water, and volcanic fertile soil meant sugarcane flourished and contributed to the island’s prosperity. By 1466 sugar became the main industry. The demand for sugar in the 15th century was so high that across Europe the crop was known as “white gold”.

Madeira was thriving, producing an amount equivalent to half of the sugar consumption in Europe. Sugar from Madeira was considered to be of the highest quality, and despite competition from other sugar producers like Sicily, Egypt, and Morocco, Madeira started to export its sugar across the world.

During this period of prosperity, Madeira began its production of Rum, with some of the production methods and technologies still used today. Madeira Rum enjoyed both a domestic and foreign market and was transported overseas by sailors and traders.

However, the sugar and rum industry of Madeira started to experience a decline in the 16th century, as a result of the decision to plant sugarcane in Brazil, a Portuguese colony at the time. Sugarcane grew effortlessly in Brazil, and Madeira – with its sloped land and therefore more labour-intensive production – was unable to compete against the new, cheaper sugar from Brazil.

Furthermore, in the 17th century, a sugarcane disease surged across the island, which was the hammer blow to Madeira’s sugar and rum industry. Sugarcane fields were replaced with vineyards and other fruits. By the late 20th century, sugarcane production declined by over 95% from its peak in the 15th century.

The 21st century saw a revival of the sugar and rum industries on the island, thanks to government support and a drive by the local population to renew their traditional skills and heritage. Today, sugarcane accounts for a total area of 172 hectares on the island, with all the production carried out by small family-owned farms.

The cane continues to be grown on sloped land, with gradients greater than 25%. For that reason, small-scale farmers continue to harvest sugarcane by hand without the use of large-scale machinery. Madeirans take great pride in knowing that sugarcane continues to be harvested in this traditional way, and it’s believed this corresponds to an exceptional product as the care and quality of the sugarcane are considered paramount.

What Makes Madeira Agricole Rum So Unique?

All rum comes from sugarcane. However, not all sugarcane is created equally. Madeira sugarcane is considered one of the best in the world with very distinct characteristics, thanks to Madeira’s unique microclimate, volcanic soil, altitude, and oceanic influences, which contribute to the cane’s distinct nuanced flavor profile, rich in aromatic compounds and complexity.

There are three types of sugarcane grown on the Island; POJ 2725 (also known as Purple cane), NCO 310 (also known as Green cane), and Yuba (also known as Canica) which is endemic to the Island. Not only does Madeira rum come from this exceptionally high-quality cane, but it is also taken through a careful production process that influences the final flavour.

The first stage in the process of rum-making is harvesting. To preserve the sugarcane’s quality and consider the island’s sloped terrain, all harvesting is done by hand, which means care and attention to detail are paramount. The sugarcane will only be harvested if it has a minimum of 15º Brix sugar levels.

The next step is crushing the sugarcane. This is done in more than one mill to ensure all the juice is extracted. In most cases, the crushing is done the day after the cane has been harvested, to maintain the sugar level and extract the maximum quantity of juice. The crushed sugarcane juice then goes into a reservoir where the next step takes place.

After the crushing of the cane where the juice is extracted, the fermentation process begins. The process is exclusively alcoholic fermentation with the help of yeast and usually takes between 24 and 72 hours.

The penultimate stage in rum making is distillation and in Madeira, the most traditional type of distillation is achieved via copper still, which results in small-batch rums with unique flavor profiles. Madeira Rum can also be distilled in a column still, which allows for a more consistent rum and higher volumes.

It should be noted that Madeira only produces Agricole rums – that is rums made by distilling fresh sugarcane juice. This is in contrast to over 90% of the rums produced globally which are Molasses based. Molasses is a by-product from the refinement of sugar, so in essence it is a cheaper way of producing rum. With Agricole rum, no sugarcane juice is diverted to making sugar. Therefore, with Agricole rum, the consumer gets the full essence of the sugarcane in the final product.

The last and most important element in producing Madeira Rum is the ageing phase. All Madeira Rums are aged in French oak barrels, which contribute deep and rich flavour profiles. The most Premium rums of Madeira will typically be aged in oak casks that previously held Madeira Wine.

These casks impart a sweet, brandy-like flavour to rums, incomparable to other rums on the market. Once we consider the whole production process of Madeira Rum, from the harvesting of the cane to the ageing of the distilled product, we can understand why Madeira Rum is highly renowned for its smoothness, richness, and complexity. Notes of dried fruits, caramel, and vanilla sing in harmony to the tune of bolder oak tones, making for a truly exceptional product. Madeira Rum is protected by a GI (Geographic Indication) preserving and maintaining the quality and essence of what Madeira Rum is internationally recognised for. and the identity responsible for regulating and certify is IVBAM, “The Institute of Wine, embroidery and Craftsmanship of Madeira”

Madeira Rum Producers

There are currently six different producers of rum across Madeira.

• Engenhos do Norte – located in the town of Porto da Cruz, this is one of the most iconic distilleries on the island. Built-in 1927, it remains the only distillery in Europe that still employs the traditional method of steam as the driving force of its key machinery. Most of the equipment on site hails from the 19th century.
• Vinha Alta (VA) – This is the newest rum producer on the island and they source all their sugarcane locally from friends and family, thus taking a hands-on approach to quality control. VA is bringing a new vision not only to rum but also to the spirits industry in Madeira, through distinctive approaches to craftsmanship.
• O Reizinho – Created in 1982 by owner Florentino Izilio Gouveia. The production of rum started as a hobby mainly to supply friends and family but evolved in the 2000s after Florentino’s son Pedro took leadership and became an acclaimed name within the industry for his passion and expertise.
• Engenho Novo da Madeira – This distillery was established in 2006 but has a much longer history. It was built by one of the descendants of the Hinton family, which once owned the largest European mill. Nowadays the new generation of entrepreneurs carry the William Hinton legacy through their brand of rums.
• Sociedade dos Engenhos da Calheta – Established in 1901, this distillery still uses historic machinery that has been adapted to use electricity. They are producers of not only rum but also sugarcane honey, an exclusive product of Madeira.
• Abel Fernandes Lda – Located in Porto da Cruz, this father-and-son distillery is currently focused on ageing their rums which are not yet available to the public. The mill dates back to 1907. These six producers combined crush an average of 12,000 tonnes of sugar cane per annum, which corresponds to around 350,000 litres at 100% abv. The majority of this is used to produce rum, with a smaller proportion diverted to make sugarcane honey.

 

6 Takeaways on Madeira rum:

1. Madeira Rum is a premium rum made from fresh sugarcane juice by small-scale farmers.
2. Madeira rum is protected, which means that only rum made in Madeira can be called Madeira rum.
3. Madeira currently has 6 producers each with their own unique style and flavour profile.
4. When visiting, try the local Rum Poncha drink at Madeira Rum House or Taberna da Poncha.
5. Sugarcane harvest (Apanha de cana) in Madeira is mid-March to May (best time to see the distilling).
6. Madeira Rum Festival is from 16th-21st April 2024, so make sure to add to your calendar!

 

Madeira Rum in the UK

Harold & Hansa Ltd is a UK distributor and specialist in Madeira Rum.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Harold Vieira is co-founder of Harold & Hansa, experts in Madeira Rum. Established in 2021, Harold & Hansa is on a mission to turn the spotlight on lesser-known, premium-quality rums from Madeira. Co-founder Harold is from this beautiful Portuguese island and his family has been involved in the rum trade for many years. Using exceptional varieties of sugarcane and a meticulous production process, Madeira creates some of the best rums in the world. The team at Harold & Hansa handpicks the finest rums from the island to bring to the trade and consumers in the UK. The company also organises rum-tasting events to take you on a journey to discover the spirit of Madeira, sip by sip.

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