Rum Road Trip to Réunion
Spirit of The Intense Island
Reading time: 9 minutes
Réunion has an intense concentration of geography, it’s oceanic, volcanic, and tropical. It has one of the most active volcanoes on earth, incredibly diverse landscapes, and awe-inspiring waterfalls which present visitors with stunning vistas around every corner. And, then there’s the rum!
Réunion is a Department of France, east of Madagascar in the Indian Ocean and part of the Mascarene Islands. It has a tropical maritime climate wet season between December and February, and a dry season between May and November. Nature lovers come to see the whales in August and September.
Drive over the lunar landscape of La Plaine des Sables, view the multiple waterfalls at Grand Galet (Langevin Falls), or, hike in one of the Cirques in Piton des Neiges UNESCO world heritage sites. Réunion is a rum adventure like no other.
Sugarcane was introduced here from Java Indonesia by The Dutch. From one rich volcanic soil to another, sugarcane settles well where there are volcanoes. The French took the island in the 1600s and named it Bourbon Island. No, not after the whiskey, that came later. They brought slaves from Africa and Madagascar to work on the sugarcane plantations. Réunion is a melting pot of African, Asian, and European cultures.
Réunion has three distilleries, and a few other brands. Dispelling a few myths about French Rhum, the biggest island producer makes molasses rum, and Réunion exports more rum than Martinique & Guadeloupe combined. The spelling of Rhum is the French word for rum, and not exclusive to cane juice rum.
Across metropolitan France, Réunion is famous for Rhum Arrangé, the rum bottles with fruit and spice macerated seen at every Caviste (wine store). Interestingly, the climate has barrel maturation losses at 4-5% compared to 8% in the Caribbean. Clouds hang around the mountains cooling the air.
North Coast
Your most likely arrival point is Saint-Denis, the capital and largest urban area on the island. At Roland Garros Airport most people pick up their rental car, and it’s essential for getting about.
Minutes away from the airport is Distillerie Chatel in Sainte-Marie but is not visitable. Its family history goes back to 1907, when a wide range of rum styles were produced; white rum, flavoured rum, rum punches, and Rhum Arrangé. The white rum for Chatel comes from the Savanna distillery, and the maceration uses locally grown fruits and spices.
In 2013 they bought the Rhum Charrette brand, best known for its Charrette Rhum Blanc made with cane juice. Named after a French Revolution historical figure whose descendants settled in Reunion. The brand came to life a year after rum production was legalised in Réunion in 1974. It’s a top-selling rum on the island and the second-best-selling rum brand in France.
Rhum Métiss – Boutique Duparc Since 2016 Rhum Métiss created by its founder Cédric, is a brand creating arranged rums, punches, and aged rums. Their boutique is next to the airport where you can sample a wide range of their Rhum Arrangés, handy for departures. Rhum Métiss started a production site in Alsace France a few years ago. The brand has started franchising to open more stores across France and on the island, the latest is in Metz (pictured).
Only 15-minute drive along the east coast before the first distillery tour, you can take a detour to visit the Cascade Niagara waterfall on the way or return if staying locally. It sets the tone for the incredible number of waterfalls on the island.
Distillerie de Savanna
Originating back to 1870, it modernised in the 1950s and moved from Saint Paul to the northeast in the 1990s. Savanna Distillery makes Grand Arôme rums similar to Jamaican high ester rums with up to 10 days of fermentation. Savanna Distillery is linked to the Bois-Rouge sugar factory. To get there by car follow the signs for Sucrerie de Bois-Rouge, then Tafia & Galabe, the shop and starting point for your tour.
The tour includes the rum-making process, the history of sugarcane on the island, and a tasting. During the sugarcane harvest (July-December), your tour also includes the sugar factory – it’s an industrial site, so don’t go in your beachwear. Tour times vary by season, but the shop is open year-round except Sundays and holidays. Tours last 1-2 hours and it’s best to reserve your spot.
Back in Saint-Denis, if you’re looking for a rum bar, La Rhumerie de La Réunion restaurant is a bar à rhum. Other recommendations are to head to the Carré Cathédrale (cathedral district), where you’ll find a few options to sip a rum cocktail and have dinner; Apoteek, Ô Bar, or Le 144 are but a few. There is also a La Maison Du Whisky boutique in Saint-Denis to pick a bottle.
East Coast
About a 30-minute drive from Savanna is Rivière du Mât Distillery in Saint-Benoît (pictured above). Founded in 1886, it moved to Saint-Benoît in 1984 and is one of the oldest and largest distilleries in Réunion.
Rivière du Mât is named after the river of the mast. It’s the island’s leading exporter and a recognisable brand in Europe. It produces rum from molasses from local sugarcane grown in volcanic soil. In the height of harvest (May to December), operations can be 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, as its column distilled. Then the spirit is aged in Limousin oak (ex-Cognac barrels).
It’s quite common for island distillers to use French Cognac distilling techniques, and you can notice this in the tasting notes. Rivière du Mât has 3 guided tours by appointment only from Tuesday to Saturday. You’ll taste their range at La Cave à Rhums. Rivière du Mât Blanc, VSOP, XO.
If you decide on a clockwise driving tour of the island, Saint-Benoît is a good place to stop for a night. This commune leads to the south coast, or inland to explore waterfalls, volcanoes, and the famous Plaine des Sables lunar landscape. Back in Saint-Benoît, a few places Super Convivial, L’Olive Bleue Café or La Cabane Aux épices is a Creole restaurant.
South by Southwest
The fastest route to Saint-Louis from Saint-Benoît believe it or not is not inland but round the top of the island. Whichever way you decide to tour the island, from a rum perspective the southwest is where you’ll find Saga Du Rhum and Maison Isautier.
Inland along the way are some epic drives, and mountainous adventures. The Plaine des Sables, Route Forestière du Volcan (volcano forest road). The Piton de la Fournaise (pictured above), is one of the most active volcanoes in the world. In the centre of Reunion is Cirque De Mafate, the highest peak in Réunion and in all of France; Piton des Neiges (Snow Peak, 3,069 m 10,069 ft) is a dormant volcano. collapsed centuries ago.
Geology lovers should visit Cité du Volcan and the interactive volcano museum. Other interesting non-rum-related stops in the south include waterfalls, the House of Tumeric, botanical, perfume, and spice gardens. Near Saint Joseph are the famous waterfalls at Grand Galet (Langevin Falls pictured above).
Saint Pierre
The capital of southern Réunion is the port town of Saint-Pierre, on the southwest coast. The city has a beach, harbour, and waterfront seaside vibe. Saint Pierre has many cafes and bars and is an ideal spot for a sunset rum cocktail.
But first up is Saga Du Rhum, the oldest family distillery on the island, and a collaboration between the three distilleries; Savanna, Isautier, and Rivière du Mât. Saga du Rhum has an excellent guided tour of the museum in French with audio guides. Next to the museum try Le Safran Foodtruck, a good option for some traditional créole cuisine.
Maison Isautier
Next to Saga Du Rhum is Maison Isautier, the island’s oldest distillery, founded in 1845. Maison Isautier makes fresh cane juice rum, molasses rum, and Rhum Arrangé. Historically, sugar production led to molasses for rum making.
Spreading its wings, Maison Isautier has taken its rums international in recent years. Look out for their long-aged treasures like L’Elise and unique collaborations with LM&V limited edition bottings. Maison Isautier is unique in blending cane juice and molasses rum. They aged in French ex-Cognac oak barrels, and present some of the longest-aged rum in the Indian Ocean.
Nout Ti L’arranzé is a small producer from Le Tampon, just inland from Saint Pierre. On the road towards Saint-Louis is Domaine du Café Grillé, a botanical garden, and coffee plantation, which gives you insights into the island’s rich botanical history with vanilla, sugarcane, pineapple, guava, palm, and orchids.
Madoi (Museum of Decorative Arts of the Indian Ocean) is just outside Saint-Louis. It’s a former coffee-growing estate, Domaine de Maison Rouge was the last coffee plantation of the 18th century.
Petrol heads will enjoy the RN5 road from Saint-Louis to Cilaos as it takes you on the 400 bends road. Then there’s Musée Stella Matutina (pictured below), a renovated museum on the history of sugar and Reunion. It can take a couple of hours to wander around and see all the factory machinery.
Further up the coast, in Saint Lea, there’s the Kélonia turtle conservation centre. Near that is The House of Coco, a coconut grove, and a tropical garden. You discover all the uses of coconut, including in the local popular coconut rum liqueurs.
Saint-Paul
Heading along the northwest coast there’s a seaside vibe with beaches like Plage de l’Hermitage. But be careful if you plan to swim in the sea, it’s only allowed in a few places that are protected by coral reefs because of the potential for shark attacks.
In Saline just south of Saint-Paul is La Part des Anges Distillation. They have a small hybrid still and make brandies with fruit. But also produce a single-varietal sugarcane juice rum which has been long fermented. Cécile will tell you with passion the history of her small family business. You’ll get to taste their range on a guided tour.
Just along the road, Musée de Villèle lets you understand the island’s past. Exhibits at this museum explore the history of slavery in Reunion in the 18th century. You can wander around the house and gardens which was a sugarcane plantation with slaves.
Saint-Paul is also home to Rhum Mamzel founder Mathieu and his team have a small boutique of their Rhum Arrangé you can try and buy in-store. It’s next to the tourism office, and if you are staying in town Sauvage Bar or Restaurant Le Manta are good options to enjoy a local rum drink with dinner.
Take a drive inland to Belvédère du Maïdo: the balcony of Réunion, it overlooks the Cirque de Mafate (pictured below). It’s a cool spot to witness the island’s natural beauty, people turn up in droves to watch the sunrise or the sunset.
Which way you tour Réunion is your choice, it has so much to offer and will be a challenge to pack it all in. We present a few options to ensure your visit hits all the good spots. The rum distilleries, local experiences, and stunning landscapes will capture your imagination. The terroir of volcanic soils and the island’s climate contribute to the uniqueness of the rum made here.
Pro tip: You can book your distillery tour by phone in advance. Check the times, so you don’t miss out because of a lunch break or it’s not open at the weekend. To fully appreciate each distillery, consider splitting your visits across several days.
To experience an authentic créole ambiance visit during the Sakifo Musik Festival, Diwali, or Dipavali in November where the Temple of the Colossus is in Sainte-André. The Grand Boucan carnival is every June, Fèt Kaf celebrates the freedom of Reunion islanders in December, and being French, Bastille Day in July is also a big festival.
A couple of serves to enjoy local while at a bar watching a coastal sunset or mountain village stay;
- The Réunion version of Ti’Punch (small punch) is called Kalou.
- Planter’s Punch is another popular serve with fresh fruit juices.
- Coconut Punch, made with one of the local coconut rums.
With so many things to see and do, you can easily spend 2 weeks in Réunion. If you want to extend your trip, take the short flight to Mauritius, and read our Mauritius guide, or fly to Madagascar!
For more practical information on Réunion
Check out our Reunion Rum Map
Image credits to producers, Canva Pro, and user contributions.
