Land of Many Waters – Rum and River Life
Reading time: 10 minutes
Often associated with the Caribbean due to its colonial past, Guyana is in the north of South America, bordering the Atlantic Ocean. From lush rainforests to award-winning Demerara rum, Guyana’s rich history and geography have shaped its story. Three mighty rivers carve through Guyana’s landscape: the Essequibo, the Berbice, and the Demerara.
The Demerara River flows into the Atlantic at the capital city of Georgetown and lends its name to the country’s most famous rum. Guyana’s lush rainforests, including the world’s tallest single-drop waterfall, Kaieteur Falls, contribute to the region’s high biodiversity. Guyana’s waterways and tropical climate 5 degrees above the equator with fertile land with mineral-rich soil create an ecosystem where some of the world’s best sugarcane grows.
Demerara rum’s story emerges in the 1600s with the arrival of sugarcane cultivation. Over 300 sugar plantations flourished along the Demerara River, each with stills making rum from the molasses the by-product of the sugar mills. In the 1800s, Guyana was a rum powerhouse, exporting two million gallons annually to destinations like Liverpool, and London, and supplying the British Royal Navy. Demerara Dark Rum was born.
The 1900s saw a consolidation with distilleries dropping from 44 to just three. Following privatisation in 1975 and further consolidation, the stills from Diamond, Enmore, and Uitvlugt (pictured above) distilleries were merged under one roof at Diamond Distillery in 1983. Today, Diamond Distillery is the sole producer but makes Guyana a top 10 rum exporter and South America’s largest distillery. Home of the world-renowned El Dorado rum, named after the mythical city of gold sought by explorers to South America.
Guyana rum is famous worldwide, but very few people visit where it’s made – only a few thousand visitors a year. Guyana is one of the least visited countries in the world, but things are changing. Since discovering vast oil reserves in 2015, the country is undergoing a a remarkable transformation. As one of the fastest-growing economies in the world, Guyana is poised to become a more developed destination in the future. Let’s explore their rum.
Demerara Distillers
On the East Bank of the Demerara River near Georgetown, lies Diamond Distillery, the beating heart of Demerara Distillers Limited. This iconic distillery is not only the brand home of the award-winning El Dorado Rum, but also a cornerstone of Demerara Rum’s rich history.
El Dorado Rum is a pioneer, in 1992, the El Dorado 15-year-old rum was launched as one of the first long-aged rums on the market. This legacy of innovation continued in 2002 with the introduction of the El Dorado 21-year-old rum.
Demerara Distiller’s significance extends far beyond its own brand. In 2017, it secured a crucial Geographical Indication (GI) for Demerara Rum, officially recognized by the EU in 2021. This distinction safeguards the unique heritage and production methods of Demerara Rum. Guyana is also part of the CARICOM rum standard, WIRSPA West Indies Rum & Spirits Producers’ Association, and met in February 2024 to celebrate its 50th anniversary.
Demerara Distiller’s success lies in its impressive capacity, a production output exceeding 26 million litres annually, making it one of the world’s largest suppliers of bulk rum. Its versatility makes it a favourite among independent bottlers, despite recent limitations. Historically, Demerara rum has formed the backbone of numerous iconic navy blends, including Pussers Rum, Wood’s Rum, Lamb’s Rum, and Hamilton 151 Overproof Rum. But also supplies local XM Royal Rum by Banks DIH Ltd and various Caribbean blends like Pyrat Rum.
The secret behind Demerara Rum’s distinct character lies in its molasses base and a relatively short fermentation process of up to 26 hours. At the helm of this large-scale operation are Master Distiller Shaun Caleb and Master Blender Sharon Sue-Hang-Baksh, ensuring the consistent quality and heritage of Demerara Rum.
For rum enthusiasts seeking a deeper dive, visit the distillery and Demerara Rum Heritage Museum Tour. It showcases the 300-year history of rum production on the site of a former plantation, displaying old machinery, historic stills, and captivating photographs. The one-hour guided tour lets you see the world’s last traditional wooden stills, production process, barrel warehouse and heritage center, gift shop, and finish on a rum tasting.
The El Dorado Rum core range offers a selection of aged expressions including 3, 5, 8, 12, 15, and 21-year-olds. You will try El Dorado’s range on your visit, however, expect to find their aged rums more readily in your home country.
Stills and Thrills
Demerara Distillers has a collection of about 14 stills, although not all are used to make rum. There are 5 main stills used to create their rum (pictured above are the stills, their model versions in the museum, and bottlings); Four Column French Saville, Continuous Diamond Coffey Still, and then the heritage stills made from greenheart wood; Versailles Wooden Pot Still, Port Mourant Wooden Double Pot Still, and Enmore Wooden Coffey Still. These heritage stills are utterly unique in the world of rum and give the rums a very full-bodied distillate & backbone of many British Navy-style rum brands. French Saville is incredibly versatile and can make 9 different rum marques
In February 2024, the brand introduced a new El Dorado High Ester Blend – a combination of exclusive, never-before-released High Ester Rum distilled on their John Dore Double Retort Copper Pot Still and the La Bonne Intention (LBI) marque from the French Savalle Still.
Both rums (LBI and DHE) were distilled in 2012, and aged in ex-Bourbon casks before being blended and bottled at cask strength. Only available in select states in the US.
Set to be the first of nine, these new expressions are eagerly awaited by rum fans, showing the true depth and versatility of Demerara rum-making. The spirit has changed over the years and is moving into a new era of flavour for rum lovers to explore.
Find out more on Demerara Distillers
Georgetown
Georgetown, the capital city of Guyana is known as the “Garden City.” With its lush greenery and rich culture, spend a few days getting your bearings and planning adventures. Visit St. George’s Cathedral, the world’s largest wooden church. Explore the bustling Bourda Market, try the curried chicken roti at Backyard Café, and rum with coconut water.
Immerse yourself in history at the Guyana National Museum, the Walter Roth Museum of Anthropology, or the Museum Of African Heritage. Stroll along the scenic Sea Walls, taking in the Demerara River views. For nature escapes, venture to the National Park to spot West Indian Manatees or find peace in the Botanical Gardens’ vibrant flora.
Georgetown also serves as a gateway to further adventures. Cross the impressive Demerara Harbour Bridge and embark on a captivating Essequibo River boat tour. Named after a 15th-century explorer, the Essequibo has 365 islands. Visit Fort Island’s Dutch Heritage Museum (pictured below), encounter sloths on Sloth Island, or visit the vibrant town of Bartica. Don’t miss the refreshing cascading Baracara Falls.
Beyond the city, consider venturing off the beaten track to Lethem and the Rupununi Savannahs, a vast expanse teeming with wildlife and indigenous culture.
Georgetown is your gateway to Guyana’s wonders. Take a private riverboat guided tour along the banks of the Demerara-Mahaica River where a guide will give you the history and facts of the famous buildings along the waterfront, and catch a beautiful sunset. The large islands at the mouth of the Essequibo Hogg Island are larger than many Caribbean islands, but not Barbados, as sometimes quoted.
Go Chasing Waterfalls
Kaieteur Falls, the world’s longest single-drop waterfall at 741 ft is 5 times taller than Niagara Falls. You can take a scenic rainforest flight, or a guided hike to explore the rainforest and overlook breathtaking views of the falls from the viewing platform soaking in the region’s natural beauty, rich biodiversity, and refreshing mists of Kaieteur’s powerful waters.
What’s On
Republic Day is February 23rd Mashramani Carnival (Mashramani means celebration of a job well done) is a big festival. Independence Day on May 26th is marked by celebrations and the Guyana Folk Festival. Diwali is November 1st in 2024 (Hindus are a third of Guyana’s population). The Guyana Rum Festival was canceled in 2023, hopefully, it will make a return. Cricket and music festivals are popular events, check the diary before travel. Some of the best times to go are late August to September or February to March, just after the end of the rainy seasons.
Pro Tip: Despite the scale of rum made here – rum bars aren’t as plentiful as you might expect. To ensure a smooth experience, plan and book your distillery tour in advance. Hiring a local guide upon arrival can be a great option, as they can take you to the hidden gems and best rum spots. You can enjoy sipping a local rum at the Altitude bar and the many rum shops.
Final thoughts
Guyana is experiencing fast infrastructure growth, with airport and road upgrades. This trend will lead to new hotels, hospitality, and tourism options – big changes in the coming years. Many believe now is the ideal time to experience Guyana before it’s more developed and enjoy its natural landscape while it is still relatively unspoiled.
It’s a true adventure to explore the heart of Demerara Rum, where it’s made. Guyana is waiting to be explored, rum lovers can experience nature and spirit in sweet harmony.
To learn more about general advice: Guyana Tourism
For travel planning use our guides and maps.
We also have Guyana prints in the Rum Geography Shop
Thanks to the brand for contributing to this article, and permission to use their images. Other image credits to Canva Pro, and user contributions.
